Lascar Erupts

The volcano Lascar, one of Chile´s most active, erupted yesterday after six years of silence (left). A loud explosion shook the surroundings, including the small village of Talabre with 12 families who live in the proximity of the mountain. Three eruptions followed, with decreasing intensity and left a 3000 meter high pillar of smoke and ashes. An area within 30 kms from the site was left with an unpleasant smell of sulfur.
Lascar erupts by average every 5.8 years since 1848, and it´s largest recorded outburst was in April of 1993 (right, below). At that occasion, ashes reached 22 kms of altitude and all the way to Buenos Aires, some 1500 kms away. The total amount of erupted materials was estimated to 0,1 km3.

Now why am I so interested in this volcano, you might ask?
It´s because I climbed it in November 2004. Let me tell you about this experience.

On the morning of the first day, me and my fellow adventurer Beat Baumgartner (a swiss) were picked up by the guide in his 4x4. We left the tranquil commodity of San Pedro de Atacama and headed for the high plateau, or altiplano. After travelling a while on well-kept, paved road we turned off and began to close in on our target. An epic scenery opened up with infinite, life-denying deserts to the sides and towering volcanic peaks confronting us. On the slopes we could spot shepherds grazing their llamas. We also passed Old Talabre, a village which was abandoned when Lascar threatened it´s people a decade ago.
We were headed to a canyon at the foot of the volcano which offered a suitable spot for raising a tent. It is important to give your body time to adapt to the altitude, and our guide had recommended us to do a two-day ascent. By spending a night on the altiplano your lungs learn to collect more oxygen from every breath and the final climb goes much smoother.
We raised our shelter, or rather the guide did; me and Beat just chilled, after all, we were paying this guy. After that we took an evening stroll to let us acclimatize more rapidly. We reached 3500 m, sat down and enjoyed our raisin-and-peanut-snack. This wasn´t so bad, I thought. The sun would soon set so we began to return to base. The temperature may drop rapidly since the atmosphere is thinner here. Indeed it did. When the sun was setting it became freezing cold, and my bowels did not feel OK. You see, the air which you carry inside your body expands when you go higher. So, you can imagine the discomfort. I returned quickly to the tent and refused to eat anything, hoping to keep everything "in-house".
After an incredibly cold night, morning came. It was also incredibly cold. Rapidly we deassembled our camp, or rather the guide did, and began the drive to where we would start the climb. On the way, we stopped at a lagoon for breakfast. On the menu was bread and jelly and chocolate cookies. We needed fast energy.
As far as our vehicle would take us we drove, stopping only at the wall which undisputably said "Volcano Starts Here". We were located at 4 700 m, and the guide estimated it would take us four hours to reach the crater by foot.
As we were going up my muscles became increasingly weaker and I seemed to be out of breath no matter how slowly I proceeded. Our feet stepped in volcanic gravel, there was no ice or snow on this side. The sky was completely clean-swept and if you managed to look over your shoulder, a breath taking view was awarded to you. But there was no time for sight seeing, the goal was up, up, up. It is just too exhausting to be looking around, all your energy must go into your legs.
Of course we made breaks, which I spent in horizontal mode (left, with guide). Annoyingly, the swiss didn´t seem affected at all by the altitude and strolled freely up and down the inclination.
He was also the first to reach the topside, with me and the guide following just behind.
A sensation of accomplishment, conquest and relief flowed through my aching body. It was all worth it. We were standing at 5 500 m above sea level, on the crater rim of one of Chile´s most active volcanoes. The last eruption had occurred in the year 2000, it could come again at any moment. But we were not concerned, and enjoyed the amazing view. We could see the peaks of the mountain range fade away in the horizon, glimpsing Llullaillaco, a volcano more than 150 kms away. In general, the view reminded more of what you would see from an airplane cabin than anything else. In spite of the severe dizzyness I was experiencing, I managed to take some pictures... or rather the guide did.

Beat Baumgartner and me.

Christer och Vilgot

Christer Pettersson och Vilgot Sjöman-blicken.

Domingo de Ramos

Today was dedicated to Achao and the island it is on. (See map here)
After having breakfast with two nice australians and a swiss, I boarded one of the many charming small buses that provide rural transportation. The bus crossed over to the island and soon I was strolling through Achao. It was quite dead, apart from the Palm Sunday mass that was being held in the church. I continued strolling around, hoping to find something more and came upon a sign that indicated "Outlook this way", and off I went. I had been walking for quite a while when I asked a fellow wanderer if it was much left. "Some 7 kms" he replied. "But I´m being picked up soon, you can ride with us. I´m going to a meeting with the Algea-collectors union. I´m the president." He said he had quite a hang-over from partying last night, but had come up with the perfect excuse. He was going to say that he´d been at a baptism.
Sounded pretty good to me, and soon we were speeding ahead in the truck of his friend. They talked about all sorts of things, but mostly about how brilliant the excuse was. My friend said that the outlook was some two kms further away from the place of their meeting, but they would take me there anyway. "We´ve got time" he assured. "After all, you´re the president", said the other.
We arrived and the view was very impressive. Before me a multitude of islands vanished in shades of blue. A good place to have a picnic. Soon the good persons who had brought me there drove off, and I was left to enjoy the tranquility. Between the islands you could glimpse the infinite horizon of the Interior Sea and above it, just barely visible, the rugged silhouette of the Andes. In the air around me I could see and hear several birds of prey. They sure knew how to take advantage of the upstream winds from the sea.

I had gathered my things and taken a few steps down the hill when I noticed something in the corner of my eye. It was one of the birds, a sparrowhawk if I´m not mistaken, sitting on a pole some ten meters from my position. It seemed indifferent to my presence. I brought out the camera as quickly as I could. Changed the lens holding my breath. Aimed. Before I snapped the picture, I hesitated a second or two. It was the most beautiful thing I´d seen through the viewfinder and just had to savour the moment. Click.
The bird noticed that I´d become aware of it, and sailed away elegantly.
I knew it was best picture of the day.

Chiloé

This morning I landed on the beautiful island of Chiloé, located south of Pto. Montt, some 1000 kms south of Santiago.
I dedicated the morning to Ancud, a quiet settlement on the northern side of the island. Among the things that this place has to offer is one of the last Spanish fortifications in America, with it´s cannons aiming solemnly into the channel.
I found a very bohéme pub for lunch and was able to inhale something of what was said around me. When one of the men chose the word "huevón", which is perfectly accepted in Santiago, the lady who owned the place was notably annoyed. The rest of us didn´t think more of it, until the same man said something much worse. The lady yelled "BUENA!" meaning "Enough!", and everyone was very amused, exchanging knowing smiles.
Next, I continued to Castro. This is the largest community on the island. Hoping to find some tours for tomorrow, I went to the only tourism information available (not official). The man said I was the first to ask for a tour. The fact that tourism season is over was made very clear. However, it´s quite nice not to be surrounded by germans for once and I have a good idea for a trip to make tomorrow, so all is good. Let´s just hope I´ll have the weather on my side.

A Weekend in La Serena

Not too close, not too far away. The coastal twin cities of La Serena and Coquimbo are a great spot for a quick retreat. At least that´s what I and Macarena thought this weekend when we took the bus northbound. Thanks to calm conditions on the job front, I retired early from the office on Friday and joined up with M on the bus terminal and soon we were on our way.
It´s remarkable how beautiful the landscape is when you´ve left the capital. Could it be that your eyes are so used to the unseductive streets and buildings of the city, that nature is like Vitamin C to them? I think my question was rhetoric enough.
We stayed at the very comfortable Apart Hotel Peñuelas, strategically located between the two towns. With a mere 100 m or so to the beach, the silence was only changelled by crashing waves.
On Saturday we strolled extensively through La Serena, with it´s colonial architecture and always (?) cloudy weather. I asked myself if we were never going to find the Lighthouse, a local landmark, and suddenly it was right before us.
As night fell, we teamed up with Virginia and had a drink at a place with live music. On stage was a singer and his guitarrist, interpreting songs of cuban Silvio Henriquez. It was not a very well-visited event, saying that four people entering the pub doubled the audience. The singer also complained over dull applauses. This made me make an effort to give the least appreciative applause I can.
To our great joy, Sunday turned out to be one of the region´s non-clouded days of the year. If any day is to be seized, this was the one. It was dedicated to the less wealthy but equally charming Coquimbo. After a visit to the gigantic Cross of the Third Millenium on the municipality´s highest point we lunched in a park watching old men napping in the sun, children playing with the fountain, and dogs doing absolutely nothing. Just the kind of tranquil small town activities you learn to appreciate in a bustling metropolis.
By midnight we were settling in for a cosy night on the bus back to Santiago.

We have a new president

As of today, there is a new boss in the presidencial palace. Her name is Michelle Bachelet, and she´s the first woman ever to assume the Chilean presidency. Former number one, Ricardo Lagos, handed over the presidency and it´s accessories (a red-white-blue ribbon, some medals) in a ceremony in the Congressional building in Valparaiso.
Later, me and Macarena went downtown to check the pulse of the city. We arrived to the Palace just in time to see some famous people stroll out the main doors. I´m not very well oriented in chilean celebrity, but apparently we saw two persons known from tv. We lingered for a while, hoping that a rumoured appearance of the newly installed Ms President would come true, but soon the massive police presence marched off and the crowds followed shortly thereafter.
On our way home we passed the enormous Hotel Hyatt. Condolezza Rice is staying there tonight, and no other guests are welcome. Apparently, Hugo Chavez intended to stay there too but had to find another place to crash. Now, Ms Rice, don´t be rude, surely there must be a bed left for Hugo...
Evo Morales, Bolivian president, pulled a joke on Ms Bachelet when he gave her a charango for "Happy Presidency" present. You see, a few weeks ago Lagos awarded the same thing to Bono of U2 when they visited the country. This puzzled the Bolivians, who consider the instrument to be a symbol of their culture, rather than Chile´s. Bachelet caught on fast and gave Morales the "You crack me up" look.

March

The Sun did a thorough job this summer. Few days have past when the Santiago valley wasn´t bathed in heat and light. I have realized how much air conditioning must mean to the development of a country in this climate. Just imagine your own efficiency at 30 degrees? It´s obvious that you´d rather have a siesta than do anything work-related. But if your office maintains a cool 25 degrees, I´m afraid you´ll just have to go back to that desk, counter, nuclear reactor monitoring room, or whatever is your thing. As a result, more steps ahead are taken.
There is still at least one month of great weather left but if you ask people, summer has past. To them March means back to school, back to work. It´s also the most miscredited month of all twelve. TV ads love to write on your nose that you are in pain now that March is near. Isn´t it funny how advertisement sometimes works with negative messages?
I´ve also agreed to staying on the job for one more month. February was tough, and all indications say that March won´t be any different so they need all the hands they can get. So I guess I´ll continue under the hum of the AC. Siesta-time will have to wait.

New header

After 215 days with the old header, I think it´s time for a change.
This one reflects a bit more accurately my situation. It´s not so much volcanoes and amazing scenery, it hasn´t been for quite a while. Hopefully, those times will return soon. This new headers also features a rich portrayal of the facial hair I´m sporting these days. So, it appeals to all I would think.

After sunset

Santiago, just after sunset.

DVD rental

Last night I finally did it. After months of preparation, I felt ready.
I was going to do it. Rent some DVDs. I hadn´t rented a movie for a long time, in at least 1 ½ years, so the whole situation felt novel. To my great delight, all the latest titles were in. Apparently, there is no buffer time before the video and dvd versions become available, as in Sweden. My mind was set on Hero, the chinese film from 2005, and unfortunately it was rented out. The sensation was very familiar. It´s like when you go the cinema and your film is sold out. What do you do, savor the defeat and go home or choose another spectacle? I think most would choose the latter. So, like a grazing cow I moved from section to section, constantly distracting myself with the trailers running on the tv screens. I settled with Spider-Man 2 and, remembering my father´s recommendation, Big Fish.
As I was dictating my phone number to the cashier, my eyes fell on the sweets conveniently placed just in front of the desk. They had Ahlgrens bilar. I looked again. It was actually the typical Swedish candy in it´s original packaging. Wasn´t that unexpected?
As the girl handed me the discs she informed me that they were copy-protected. "We´ll just see about that" I thought to myself...

Footnote: When I got home, I noticed they were in fact copy-protected.

Harvest

A harmonious wake-up to the melody of birds. Sun pouring through your window. Your arms and legs feel as new after the night´s rest, and you spring out of bed. Your very person radiates vitality. As you open the door to the garden a slight breeze embraces you, carrying the scent of a thousand plants in blossom. Life rushes into your body. You hear the laughter of all that must be happy in this very moment. Your gaze travels straight up, following the white dove that must´ve been right there. In this moment of clarity and truth, the world reminds you: It was not a dream. You may live again. Here, have an apricot. They are just done.

By the way, we´re harvesting the apricots in the backyard.

"Let´s make five jobs out of one"

Let me tell you about how I bought internal memory for my notebook the other day.
I entered the store through the only door that was open, and asked if they sold memory. The girl said I had to enter through another door, since I had entered Technical Support. I thanked her and chose the indicated door.
"Hello, I´d like to buy some memory." I said to a girl sitting by her desk.
"Please proceed to our sales executives" she replied, referring to three young ladies sitting nearby. I obeyed.
Finally, I was able to be attended. When the sales person had received my request, she said "Now, to pay you need to proceed to the end of the room". I did as I was told and sat down with a second woman, who received my payment. "Now, take this receipt to the next room, and they will give you your product." Without further ado, I continued my quest through the premises. In the next room, I presented the receipt and they handed me my goods. I took the opportunity to ask the guy how to install it. "You´d have to take that question to Technical Support."
So, as a nutrient travelling through the food chain, I found myself back where I started.
To make a simple over-the-counter transaction, I had to talk to five people, and one of them twice. Chile may be a wonderful country in many ways, but efficient it ain´t.

In the bushes

Hitch that team up,
Jebediah Springfield,
whip them horses,
let them wagons roll
That a people might
embiggen America,
that a man might
embiggen his soul,
his soul... his soul...


(For those of you who doesn´t recognize these lines, click here.)

This weekend a cousin of my father had invited us to his house on the country side.
Naturally, we accepted. You should never pass on an opportunity to visit the chilean country side. Especially if you´re living in Santiago.
We stayed for two nights, enjoying good company, food and the hospitality of our uncle.
On the last day we went for a ride with the horses. Me, Isabel and Macarena. None of us have that much experience with horses, but we decided to give it a try and have fun.
We rode to a creek not far from the house, where the horses drank happily. As we crossed the shallow water, I noticed that my horse tended to sink slightly in the creek bed. Suddenly, the horse dropped rapidly. One of it´s hooves had sunk a great deal and the animal was struggling to regain it´s posture. After using bad language for a few seconds I jumped off. I guided the horse out of the treacherous water and we continued our little tour.
Macarena´s horse did not respond to input so she switched with Isabel who gave it stronger signals. My horse problems weren´t over either. What´s-his-name (never knew it) was a real food junkie. As soon as we stopped he would lower his head and munch on some turf. I had to give him a really hard time until he started moving his butt again. He was not happy.
Later, we went to the beach so Isabel could enjoy the horribly cold water of the Pacific for the last time on this visit.

I have something to confess

Happy New Year

I wish all my friends a great 2006!
The photo is a 2 sec exposure of tonights fireworks from one of the hills of Santiago.
More pictures of fireworks

Hot Christmas

The sun is shining,
the grass is green

The orange and palm trees sway
There's never been such a day
In Beverly Hills, L.A.

But it's December the twenty-fourth
And I am longing to be up north

Who can tell me what follows here?

Chilean Christmas is a deeply religious holiday. Normally, you´ll attend mass at least once on the 24th and 25th. And were talking long bench-sittings. There is music, candles and prayers to the Lord. So far, all is good.
It´s when you enter the shopping centers that things get really perverted. Where to start... The Christmas tree is at least 10 m tall and with enough blinking lights to give blind people epilepsy. It´s surrounded by red carpets and drapings, weird interpretations of the reindeer species, and finally a live Santa, swetting away in full costume as he receives the young consumers-of-tomorrow. To his aid, some petite girls in short Christmas dresses. Add to this the catchy pop/rock versions of Holy Night. Just horrible.
If you for a moment felt swept away by the festive ambient, you´ll be abruptly deprogrammed the moment you step out the automatic doors. Swaying palms, the sun at zenith and reggaeton spilling out from every car around you. Talk about culture clash.
Ok, so the Christmas spirit is totally messed up, but you can lie in a swimming pool all day if you want.
So maybe it´s not so bad after all.

... but, come on, Santa selling Bar-B-Ques?

Merry Christmas

It´s Christmas, a time of generosity and solidarity.
Being so, we went to give breakfast and spread the holiday spirit to the people that sleep on the streets. You don´t see them very often, but there are plenty.
We concentrated our efforts to those lying under the roofs of a large fruit and vegetable market, La Vega. The trick is to get there early, before sunrise and before the people sleeping are ousted by the merchants.
The first we encountered was a family with two teenage daughters. We gave them coffee, sandwiches and fruitcake. A few paces away was a mother with her 8 month-old infant. Sleeping on cardboard.
Our usual route ends in an alley with several clandestine pubs. When we are all out of givings we stay and chat with the residents. They are always keen to make conversation. My uncle Luchin, who is one of the organizers, enriches our presence with his violin playing.
We found one man lying on his side. When we left he was sitting on a chair, with coffee and a sandwich in his hands. That´s what this is about.
Not to change their lives, but to give them a break.

For the Organ

The Organ. You see it in the back of the church,
always with a broad, metallic grin.
It´s celestial harmonies can soften your emotions.
It´s trumpets and bass pipes can knock you off the bench.
It can decorate or dominate.
What can´t it do?
Be ignored.
The Organ is the King of all instruments.

I started taking organ lessons in April, and this Friday we had our latest presentation. I performed three pieces by Matthew Locke, entitled "For the Organ", a toccata by Buxtehude (BuxWV165) as well as a piece written by myself, "Variations of a theme".
The organ in question is located in the chapel of Hospital del Salvador, a public hospital. The chapel is seen after by a religious community of nuns. The poor souls have to bare with our constant organ practising, which at times is far from heavenly.

I live here

You must have Quicktime installed to see this 360-degrees image.
It was assembled from 37 photos, which is way more than needed...

Santa Lucia

Don´t they look sweet?

Swedish traditions reach as far as their followers, and Lucia is no exception. It´s normally celebrated on the morning of the 13th, but the Swedish community in Santiago had chosen to hold it today since it´s a national holiday. It took place in the German church "El Buen Pastor". I went as a mere spectator but was called in for duty and soon found myself in the traditional outfit: white cape, cone-hat and star-on-a-stick in hand. We sang the usual tunes, accompanied on the piano by a very skilled guy. I really enjoyed the songs, the candles and everything. Christmas is a-coming!